Attic air sealing in Perris CA - rooms that hold the air you pay to heat and cool
If the upstairs never feels right and the power bill keeps climbing, we close the gaps in your attic floor so the air stays put.
- Licensed and insured.
- Free on-site estimates.
- We respond within 1 business day.
Why does my upstairs feel drafty even with insulation up there?
Attic air sealing in Perris closes the gaps between your attic and the rooms below, so the air you heat and cool stays in the house, the power bill comes down and the attic stays drier. Insulation without sealing is like a warm jacket with the zipper left open, and sealing is closing the zipper.
Most people call me because a bedroom or the room over the garage never feels right, even after someone added insulation. The price moves with how many gaps there are around lights, pipes and wiring, how easy your attic is to move around in, and whether something has to be fixed first, like a roof leak or old insulation that's soaked or full of droppings and needs insulation removal. The schedule turns on those same fixes and on whether new insulation goes in afterward. When I come out, I show you photos of what's up there and give you a written estimate that spells out what has to happen first.
How can you tell your attic is leaking air?
Upstairs rooms never feel right
A bedroom or the room over the garage runs hotter or colder than the rest of the house, wherever you set the thermostat. That usually means attic air is moving in through gaps in the ceiling, and until they're closed you keep paying to heat and cool air that slips right back out.
Dark streaks on the insulation
When you open the hatch, you may see gray or black stains on the insulation around light fixtures, pipes or the tops of walls. That's dust caught as air pushes through, so the insulation is working as a filter instead of a blanket, and piling more on top won't stop it.
Drafts at lights and the hatch
You feel moving air at ceiling lights, the attic hatch or a bath fan, or dust keeps settling below them. Those are the openings where house air escapes into the attic, and that damp indoor air can leave moisture in the framing if it goes on for years.
How we handle attic air sealing
Before any sealing starts, I go through a short checklist with you, because a few problems have to be fixed first and I'd rather lose the job than seal over one. Then our crew pulls back the insulation where the gaps are and seals the attic floor, with caulk on small cracks, foam on wider ones and metal with high-heat caulk around hot flues, because foam doesn't belong next to heat. We cover the can lights that need it, weatherstrip the hatch so it latches tight, and leave the soffit, ridge and gable vents clear, since those are meant to breathe.
If you're adding insulation, the sealing goes first, and our retrofit insulation work can follow right behind it. Spray foam insulation seals and insulates in one pass but costs more, so I usually point people toward sealing the gaps and topping up loose fill, unless your ductwork runs through the attic, where foam often earns its price.
Sealing with a loose-fill top-up
This suits most attics where the old insulation is dry and clean but thin or settled, because we close the gaps and then add blown-in, loose fill blown through a hose, on top. It's the lower-cost route and fixes the draft and the depth together.
Spray foam when ducts are up there
This suits houses with ductwork in the attic, because foam seals and insulates at the roof so the ducts sit in the comfortable part of the house. It costs more, so I only suggest it when the ducts make it worth it.
Get a written estimate for sealing your attic
Send the form and I'll get back to you within one business day to set a time to look at your attic with you. The estimate is free, done on site and comes with no obligation. You'll see photos of what's up there and get everything in writing before you decide anything.
(951) 418-3036Planning attic air sealing in Perris
Building permits in Perris come from the city's Building and Safety Division, and I won't tell you a sealing job is exempt, so ask the division whether yours needs one or let me check before we start. When a job needs a permit, we pull it ourselves and set up the inspection. If you'd rather pull it as the owner, the city has you complete and sign an owner-builder form, and I'll explain what else the office will ask you for.
We're based in Perris and work in the cities around it across western Riverside County, and plenty of the houses we go into have ductwork in the attic and years of unsealed gaps around lights and pipes, the same as we find on jobs in Menifee and Moreno Valley. If your household income sits at or below a set share of the state median, you may qualify for free energy upgrades through Community Action Partnership of Riverside County, so it's worth checking with them before you budget the job.
What happens after you call about attic air sealing?
Call or send the form
I answer the phone myself or call you back, and we pick a time for me to come out. Let me know where your attic hatch is so I can get up there easily.
Walk the attic with me
I look at the attic with you, show you photos and point out anything that has to be fixed before sealing. You get a written estimate listing the sealing, the hatch and any fixes in the order they need to happen, so you know what you're paying for.
Installers seal, I check it
When you're ready, our installers do the work, and I check it before we pack up. Then we walk you through what went in and where.
Frequently asked questions
How much does attic air sealing cost in Perris?
Professional attic air sealing across the US usually costs about $250 to $750 per job for the sealing itself. Complex attics, testing, added insulation and repairs can add a good deal to that. Your written estimate after I see the attic is the number that counts for your house.
Should I seal my attic before adding insulation?
Yes, the sealing should be finished before new insulation goes in, because that's how you get the most savings out of both. Safe venting for gas appliances and fresh air inside the house get checked even before that, then attic ventilation, then sealing, then insulation.
What needs to be fixed before attic air sealing?
Active knob and tube wiring, vermiculite insulation and bathroom fans that vent into the attic all have to be dealt with before sealing starts. A leaking roof, or an unvented kerosene heater or gas fireplace in the house, comes first too. When I find one, it goes into the plan and the budget so nothing gets sealed over.
How do I know if attic air sealing worked?
A blower-door test, which measures air leakage across the whole house, can confirm the change after the work. If other parts of the house were sealed at the same time, the result shows all of it, not just the attic.
What causes air leaks between the attic and the house?
Most leaks come from holes cut through the ceiling and the tops of walls for wiring, plumbing, can lights, bath fans and the attic hatch. Each one is small, but together they let house air flow up into the attic all day, and insulation laid over them slows heat without stopping the air.
Do I need a licensed contractor for attic air sealing in California?
Yes, once labor and materials together reach $500, anyone altering a building in California has to be licensed by the Contractors State License Board. Contractors have to hold that license before they bid, so it's fair to ask about it with the first estimate.
Perris, CA
Have your attic checked before sealing
Jot down where your hatch is, what kind of insulation is up there, where the bath fans vent and any roof leaks you know of, and the call goes quicker.